MSC Lirica with kids: our week in the Adriatic and Aegean

A week on MSC Lirica from Venice was lovely, but more of an experiment than our new way to travel. There were six of us: four adults and two children aged 5 and 7. Seven nights, calling at Kotor, Mykonos, Syros and Ancona, with two days at sea. The children loved the pools above all, and the food in the restaurants was very good. As backpackers, though, we found the ship a little confining and, compared with our usual trips, expensive.

I added the trip to Compi afterwards. You'll find it as a template at the bottom: ports, times and what we did in each place. Shift it to your own sailing date.

The route at a glance#

The times are from the schedule of our trip, 29 August to 5 September 2026. For another week, go by the MSC daily programme.

Getting there: by car, with an evening at Lake Garda#

We drove from southern Germany. On the way down we spent an evening at a campsite on Lake Garda, which split up the drive. We had pizza there that evening. The next day we carried on to Venice.

In Venice we parked outside the centre and took the bus in. Parking cost us €8 a day and the bus €1.50, which is very cheap for a week. On the way back we drove home in one go.

The ship: pools, plenty to explore and good food#

By today's standards, MSC Lirica is a mid-sized ship: 274.9 m long according to MSC, with room for just over 2,600 guests. In 2003 she was MSC Cruises' first new-build ship, named by Sophia Loren. In 2015 she was cut in half and lengthened by 24 m. The decks are named after composers, from Verdi to Rossini, which suits a ship called Lirica.

According to MSC, there are kids' clubs for all ages up to 17 and a splash area, the Spray Park. There was plenty for the children to explore, and for us adults too. The children's highlight was clearly the pools.

Cabins: inside is enough, outside is nicer#

The two of us had an inside cabin; our friends and the children had an outside cabin. As we were rarely in the cabin, inside was fine. The one with a window was still nicer: you can simply look out at the sea.

Food and drinks: the restaurant beats the pool bar#

The food in the restaurants was very good. At the pool bars it was fine, nothing more.

We had the "Easy" drinks package. On our sailing it included up to 15 alcoholic drinks per day, which was enough for us. On board we noticed that upgrading to the next package gets you better brands.

Sea days and sunbeds#

This was the one thing that really annoyed us. If you want a shaded sunbed on a sea day, you have to get to the pool very early. By late morning everything was taken, which turned a relaxed day at sea into a bit of a race.

Kotor: a small old town, no fortress#

Kotor sits at the end of a long bay, and the old town is just a few minutes' walk from the pier. Both the bay and the old town are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We only walked around the old town, and it really is beautiful: small, with winding lanes and stone houses with green shutters.

We skipped the climb up to the fortress. We were in port in the afternoon, it was hot, and with children aged 5 and 7 it would have been too much.

Mykonos: town, beach, then town again at night#

Mykonos was the only port where we tendered, going ashore in small boats. Expect a bit of a wait when tendering. If your ship docks at the new port, the Sea Bus runs to Chora: according to the operator, about every 30 minutes, taking around 8 minutes.

We started with a bit of time in town, at Little Venice and the windmills. Then we took the bus to the beach and spent the day there. The children loved it.

As the ship didn't leave until 1 am, we went back into Chora for dinner. That was lovely, especially walking through the white lanes after dark.

Syros: old town in the morning, then the beach again#

On Syros we did much the same. A short walk through Ermoupoli's old town, which you can reach on foot from the ship. Then we headed to the beach, because the children had enjoyed Mykonos so much. A bit of snorkelling, some rest, then back to the ship.

Ancona: a short walk, then back to the pool#

To be honest, Ancona wasn't really our thing. We walked around a bit and looked at the churches, including San Ciriaco Cathedral on the hill. After that we were soon back on the ship by the pool.

Venice: the ship berths at Marghera#

Since 1 August 2021, ships of this size may no longer sail through St Mark's Basin and the Giudecca Canal. MSC Lirica therefore departs from Marghera on the mainland. Your MSC documents tell you exactly where to check in and whether a transfer is included.

Our verdict#

Would we do it again? In principle yes, but not as our default. We usually prefer to travel independently. On a ship, the schedule decides where you are and for how long, which felt a little confining to us. Compared with our usual trips, it was also on the expensive side.

Still, it was good to try it once.

• Start sea days early if you want shade by the pool.
• Plan main meals in the restaurant; the pool bar is for in between.
• An inside cabin is enough if you're out a lot. A window is nicer.
• Take it easy in hot ports: old town and beach rather than a fortress in the midday heat.
• Leave a little slack for the tender on Mykonos, and don't miss the evening in Chora.